In proper boat wiring, nothing is powered directly from a battery. When a device "is powered by the HOUSE battery" that does not mean that the device MUST be wired directly to the actual terminals of a battery. If the further detail you give above about an "ST blade fuse panel" and that panel is powered from the HOUSE battery, I don't see any particular difference. Please explain more.Īs for where you actually connect the second network power node, you just said it would be from the HOUSE battery. They two don't seem to have any correlation. I don't understand the relationship between quoted text from my earlier reply and your question: I am using the Evinrude G2 harness for the original NMEA 2000 network and a Garmin power isolator and power cable.
#Nmea 2000 wiring install#
It would have extremely low voltage drop, it would be switchable and it would be a clean install in immediate proximity to the network. The total load on this circuit is likely no more than 15 amps and it is within a few feet of where the power node will be inserted on the NMEA backbone. Is there a reason that I should not pull my power for the second power node (Garmin) from my ST blade fuse panel at the console? This house circuit is 24 feet total supply and return with 8 AWG wire switched at the battery with a 187-series 30A breaker/switch. Test by measuring the resistance from the shield in the second power node to the shield in the first power node. If it is critical they be able to talk to each other when the engine is off, then you need the power isolator and a second power node. If you removed the power isolator, the two fish-finders will still work, but they won’t communicate with each other.
The devices on your isolated power branch will work without network power on the bus, they just won’t be able to communicate. Using the primary power ON-OFF switch at the HOUSE battery to control NMEA-2000 network power is a workable method, as long as you always shut off the HOUSE main switch when you leave the boat. In practice, it probably won't make any difference.ĮV-Diagnostic cables are currently SOLD OUT. If the shield circuit is carried through the power isolated, then you can omit the connection of the shield conductor at the second power node to the battery (-). If the shield circuit is not carried through the power isolator then you should connect the shield of the second power node to the battery (-). It is difficult to know if the device you will use as a "power isolator" will carry the shield conductor through the device. The shield conductor should be connected to the ship ground bus-but if a boat is a small fiberglass boat, it probably does not have a ground bus. The negative bus power conductor should be connected to the (-) battery terminal. The positive bus power conductor should be connected to the (+) battery terminal via a 3-Ampere fuse and a switch. The circuits of the cable you describe above are: power node lead has three wires - red, black and another non-insulated wire. It seems that I recall that is a type of ground but that it should not be connected because the G2 side of the NMEA is already connected to ground and that connecting both would create a loop. I've read on this forum what that wire is but I don't remember. ignition is in the off position.)Īlso, I see that the Garmin power node lead has three wires - red, black and another non-insulated wire.
The power node for the Garmin side of the network would come off my fuse box under the console so that the Garmin side of the network would activate when the house circuit is turned in at the battery breaker/switch and remain on even when the G2 side of the network is not powered (ie.
I would like to leave the 3.5 display connected as is. The Point 1 drop would be inserted on one of these tees on the Garmin side of the power isolator and the terminator would go on the end on the Garmin backbone. My plan is to remove the terminator #17 and add a power isolator at that position and then begin the Garmin side of the backbone with tees for drops from my Garmin units, accessories, and power node. I would also like to be able to see the G2 engine information on my Garmin units. I would like to add my Garmin units so that they are active on the network and can see the Point 1 when the G2 is off and I am fishing. I have a Point 1 at position #26 and a 3.5" display at #19. Can I get some confirmation that this is correct NMEA 2000 addition.Ĭurrently, my NMEA is as shown in the diagram below. I am finally adding a Garmin Echomap 102sv and 122sv to my boat. View Member Profile Find Member's Topics Find Member's Posts nohoch_kay
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